This was my first experience on a real life nude beach and I had to travel to Italy to experience it. Not my first time skinny dipping, but the first time at a recognisably nude beach with the intention of skinny dipping. It was here I began to realise that things like getting naked at a nude beach are not as easy as they seem (probably not helped by 'guides' like this that inform people of the existence of such beaches... probably). The thing is, this beach is pretty hard to get to, and people are enamoured with the idea of finding seclusion amongst the hoi palloi of tourist hot spots like the CT. Often these people aren't so fussed about the culture of the beach, only that they get their own personalised experience out of it (either being on a nude beach for its own sake, or the sense they had found a secret that no-one had). I recognise my own interests were much the same, but I was intending to get naked alongside all the other naked people, who used the beach to get naked because it's a nude beach. For naked people. Naked.
We chose the downhill, off the beaten track approach to get there. It isn't as scary as the other way into the beach, but it's definitely not easy, you will get scratched a little, and probably slide onto your butt a number of times. Once we reached the easy bit there was still a scramble down a short cliff face using a rope to get to the bottom. Ease of access? Nope. I'd say 3/10. You need to be fit(tish) (and able), willing to get sweaty, scratched, and soiled.
We passed a small group of naked people right away: Yay! They were a bit weird: OK? Then we saw that the rest of the people there were clothed: Right. The gender split was very even, but the clothinglessness was initially 20/80. There was a bit of toplessness going on, but it was very tucked away. There was definitely the sense that a few people insisting on wearing swimsuits had pushed the skinny dipping to the margins. I have seen this happen time and again since, and to some extent it justifies the protectionism that can go on at nude beaches. This insisting on swimsuits at nude beaches or nude sections of beaches goes beyond people who are at least thinking about skinny dipping, you can tell these people from a mile off... The insisting is much more about their right to be on a nude beach or to 'take over' the nude section of the beach, simply because they want to, and think they have a right to do so.
As I've said, I'm not typically the guy who tries to turn the tide, or joins the naked side of the beach when there is a split between naked people and swimsuited up people (not yet at least). But I am happy to join in if the tone of the whole beach heads towards more nakedness than not. So early on, we settled in amongst the rocks, tucking ourselves away a little, as others had, with the tone staying the same almost the whole time. I took my togs off while swimming (kept in hand rather than left on the beach), but didn't have the confidence to do more than that at this stage in the game.
The beach is pebbled. The water is deep. It was a little windy when we were there, but gentle waves rather than anything surf like. It was very quiet. Very peaceful. With only the gentle thrum of people's heads turning this way and that to gauge which way the clothing optional vibe might go.
We weren't the only ones down there with at least one person interested in 'trying things out'. A young couple turned up and she tentatively began the process of working towards toplessness. We studiously ignored the fraught efforts she was undergoing, and her boyfriend's less than covert checks that no-one was staring (or maybe he was preparing to down trou?). It took one very brave new arrival who proceeded to whip her clothes off (while her partner stayed swimsuited) to increase the poor young lass's comfort, and she relaxed a bit. Her and her partner had a swim, and departed soon after.
With them gone, and another clothed couple leaving, I decided it was now or never and sunbathed naked for about an hour. I didn't go in for a swim, stayed pretty discrete, and tucked behind rocks (as you can). But mission accomplished. First time naked. In 'public' But also, first time realising how difficult the 'invasion' of clothed people onto a beach, recognised as a nude one, can really make it difficult for people who want to give things a go. Also recognising that nude enclaves don't help people find these opportunities either. It took one woman stepping across the invisible line in the pebbles, confident in her nakedness that gave a few of us more confidence to do the same to greater or lesser degrees.
Overall, a mixed bag. It is a pretty nice beach, but certainly not the most amazing one we've been to, but it is worth the effort to visit. It's lovely, secluded, and has the clearest water in the CT. I would suggest that if you're not at least intending to get naked, or topless, or something, then don't add Guvano to your list of 'experiences' just cos. I think it's worth it if you go there because you want to try things out. But test the vibe to see if it's heading towards increasing your comfort levels, or just jump in. Given the time again, I'd have done things differently, but I think you need a few positive experiences under your belt (so to speak) to get that confidence sometimes. Maybe.
If you leave or arrive by the tunnel, it will cost you a few Euro. I'm not sure the guys in the 'bar' that charge you have any authority to do so, but we viewed it as a contribution to a nice beach, and a fun experience.
The tunnel is dark, and can be scary, it feels like it goes on forever. At the other end you walk up towards the Corniglia train station via a ramp or two.
Grade: 7.5/10
Difficulty of access: 8/10 (through scrub) OR between 3 and 5/10 (through tunnel)
Likelihood of others being around: 7/10
Ease for a skinny dipping newbie: 5/10 (on the day we were there)
